Easy DIY Guide on How to Make a Bookish Tote Bag for Book Lovers

I recently shadowed my friend Ola, who makes tote bags (and honestly, a bunch of other beautiful things), and I learned so much about the process.

And as I was learning, I kept thinking about the little things I’d add when I make my own bookish tote bag.

So, this is me sharing my experience with you – part advice from Ola’s world, part my own plan for when I make mine. 

Hopefully, it inspires you to try making your own bookish tote bag too.

Step 1: Decide the Purpose and Style of Your Bag

Before Ola even cut a single piece of fabric, she made me think about what this tote means. 

Is it just for carrying books to the library? Is it also for groceries? Is it purely for style? For me, I knew I wanted mine to:

1. Fit at least 4 standard hardcovers.
2. Be comfortable on my shoulder without digging in.
3. Look unapologetically bookish – quotes, embroidery, maybe even a little fabric painting.

For a bookish tote, you want two things:

1. Strength, so it can carry books without stretching out or tearing.
2. Personality, so it feels like your bag, not something you could have bought at the corner store.

I’ll make mine medium-sized, so that it’s big enough to fit a couple of thick novels but not so big that I feel like I’m carrying a sack of laundry. 

I also want a gusseted bottom (that’s the flat base) so books can sit nicely without making the bag bulge.

Step 2: Gather Your Materials

Here’s the exact shopping list Ola uses and what I’m adding for my version:

You’ll Need:

1. Main fabric: Heavy canvas, denim, or upholstery cotton (pre-wash to prevent shrinkage).

2. Lining fabric: Smooth cotton, linen, or even quilting fabric for a nice interior.

3. Straps: Cotton webbing OR fabric straps you’ll sew yourself.

4. Thread: Strong polyester thread in a matching or contrasting color.

5. You can also add interfacing for structure, magnetic snap, fabric paint, stencils, embroidery thread.

6. Tools: Sewing machine, scissors/rotary cutter, measuring tape, pins or clips, iron.

Step 3: Cut the Fabric Pieces

Ola’s golden rule was measure twice, cut once and I swear she must have repeated it four times while I stood there.

For a medium tote, I’ll cut:

1. Main body (canvas): 2 rectangles, each 16″ wide x 18″ tall

2. Lining (cotton): 2 rectangles, same size

3. Straps: 2 strips, each 26″ long x 4″ wide (if making from fabric) or 2 pieces of pre-made cotton webbing

4. For the gusset, add 3″ extra width at the bottom for a boxed base

Always iron your fabric before cutting. Wrinkles can throw off measurements by a surprising amount.

And, if you have absolutely no idea how to actually cut the fabric, here’s a super beginner-friendly YouTube video to get you started right away. 

Step 4: Decorate Before Sewing

This is where the bookish magic happens. 

Ola often makes plain totes first and decorates later, but for my bag, I’ll decorate before sewing because it’s easier to work on flat fabric.

Some ideas I’m considering for mine:

1. Hand-painted book quote: Something short, bold, and inspiring

2. Embroidery: maybe a tiny stack of books in one corner

3. Iron-on vinyl for clean, graphic lettering

4. Fabric appliqué: different colored fabric pieces cut into book shapes

If you’re painting or using fabric markers, slide a piece of cardboard under the fabric to prevent bleed-through.

Step 5: Assemble the Outer Bag

This part was the most satisfying to watch Ola do.

It’s where flat pieces start becoming a real bag.

Here’s the step-by-step I learned (and will follow myself):

1. Place the two main fabric pieces right sides together (so the decorated sides face each other).

2. Sew along the sides and bottom with a ½” seam allowance.

3. For a gusseted base: Flatten each bottom corner into a triangle and sew straight across about 1½” from the tip, then trim the excess.

At this stage, it already looks like a bag, but without the straps or lining yet.

Step 6: Make and Attach the Straps

If you’re using cotton webbing, this part is quick just measure, cut, and pin them in place.

If making fabric straps (my plan):

1. Fold each long strip in half lengthwise, right sides together.

2. Sew along the long edge.

3. Turn right-side out (Ola uses a safety pin for this and it works like a charm).

4. Press flat with an iron.

5. Topstitch along both edges for neatness and extra strength.

When attaching:

1. Position straps about 4″ in from each side seam.

2. Pin them so they face down toward the bag (the raw ends align with the bag’s top edge).

3. Baste (temporary stitch) them in place so they don’t shift later.

Step 7: Add the Lining

This is the part that makes the inside look polished and stops little threads from fraying over time.

1. Sew the lining pieces together exactly as you did the outer bag – but leave a 4″ gap in the bottom seam (you’ll use this to turn the bag right-side out).

2. With the outer bag still inside out, slip it into the lining so right sides are facing each other. The straps will be tucked inside between the layers.

3. Match the side seams and pin all around the top.

4. Sew around the entire top edge.

5. Pull the outer bag through the gap in the lining, then sew the gap closed.

6. Push the lining into the bag and press the top edge flat.

7. Topstitch around the top to keep everything in place.

Step 8: Finishing Touches

Once the bag is fully assembled, I’d do:

1. A final press with the iron (makes it look professionally made).

2. Add extra decorative stitches if I want a contrasting thread detail.

3. Treat the fabric with a water-resistant spray so it survives rainy days at the bookstore.

While shadowing Ola, a few tips stuck with me that I’ll definitely use when making my own bag:

1. Don’t skimp on fabric quality. Cheap fabric will fray, stretch, or lose shape quickly.

2. Iron as you go, because it makes every seam neater and helps with accuracy.

3. Take your time with straps, because uneven straps make a bag uncomfortable to carry.

4. Decorate early, since this is much easier than painting or embroidering on a finished bag.

5. Reinforce stress points like where the straps meet the bag, because that’s where heavy books will put pressure.

My Personal Add-Ons for My Bookish Tote

Because mine is for books, I’m planning a few extras:

1. An inside pocket for a library card, pen, or small notebook.

2. A magnetic snap closure so books don’t fall out if I lean the bag over.

3. Bookish embroidery.  Maybe little stars and moons around the main design to give it that cozy-reader feel.

4. Custom quote: I’m leaning toward something short and sweet.

Caring for Your Handmade Tote

If you want your tote to last, wash it gently. 

Hand-wash in cold water and air dry if possible, especially if you’ve decorated it with paint or embroidery.

You can also check out this YouTube video that shows ways you can take care of your handmade tote bag so that it lasts longer. 

Full Materials Checklist

Fabric & Supplies

1. Canvas or cotton duck cloth (16″ x 18″ panels)
2. Quilting cotton lining (same size)
3. Cotton webbing or fabric strips for straps
4. Heavy-duty thread
5. Interfacing (optional but recommended)
6. Fabric paint, markers, embroidery floss, or patches
7. Magnetic snap (optional)
8. Pocket fabric (optional)

Tools

1. Sewing machine or hand-sewing needles
2. Fabric scissors
3. Measuring tape/ruler
4. Pins or clips
5. Iron & ironing board
6. Fabric marker/chalk
7. Cardboard (for painting stage)

When I finally make mine, I’m planning to document the process step-by-step, because honestly, tote bags are addictive.

Once you make one, you’ll probably start imagining designs for five more. 

And a bookish tote is the perfect first project because it’s both practical and personal.